I
can’t tell you the last time I was in Lithgow. It was sometime when I was very
young and I remember that the place was grey and oppressive: everything was
run-down and miserable-looking without a single bright colour anywhere to
alleviate the gloom. Imagine my surprise then, when I landed there today in
order to attend the 14th annual Ironfest
gathering!
Certainly
it’s autumn, and the cluster of European trees that always indicate Blue
Mountains communities was bursting out in reds oranges and yellows; those trees
are now much larger than when I was a child and the surrounding country looks
lush and heavily-forested. Lithgow sits at the bottom of a natural amphitheatre
bound by craggy cliffs and is punctuated with the Victorian ruins of its mining
past. The train passed through eight or so tunnels before we reached the
station, each of them framed with elegant sandstone.
Economically,
I don’t think much has changed in the town. It was poor when I saw it years ago
and it’s still struggling now: Main Street is full of pubs, dentists and
hearing-aid specialists, bargain stores and employment agencies, all separated
by empty shopfronts plastered with “For Lease” notices. Nowadays though, the
buildings lining the street are painted and cheerful, a world away from the
grey uniformity and bleakness I encountered in the ‘70s. However, nice a
surprise as this was, I was here for something quite different:
Ironfest is in its fourteenth year at Lithgow.
Originally, this event was a get-together organised by a local metal-weapons
re-enactment group but, after allowing other such organisations to attend and
then opening their brief a little wider to encompass other hobbyists and fans,
they’ve made the event a wonderful, quirky and welcoming phenomenon.
I
have a bit of a confession to make at this point: I was once an SCA member and
did my time running around a freezing paddock in a silly outfit. I came to the
activity due to an interest in heraldry and stayed to learn - and eventually
teach - archery (before a visiting “King of the West”, under whose aegis we fell at that time, decided on a
whim that we were a bunch of homicidal toxophilists and banned us from archery,
pending a moratorium – one of many, many,
reasons I quit). Coming to this event I was a bit hesitant about the
possibility of running into some of the (colourful? certifiable?) people I
encountered back then, but, secure in my anonymity, I felt few would recognise
me now. Still, it was with some unease that I approached the front gate of the
Lithgow Showgrounds with the sound of “All
Around My Hat”, the Steeleye Span staple that infects every SCAdian
gathering, ringing off the surrounding hills. Suddenly though, the sound of
cannon-fire drowned out the singing and, when the echoes had faded, the tune
had changed: I walked through the gate and was pleasantly confronted by an
amazing spectacle.
The
place was truly magical. Everything was tricked out in party atmosphere:
bunting and tents lined all the laneways and people were hurrying around
dressed up to the nines. There were so many top hats and bowlers on show that I
suspect people had been ruthlessly raiding their local second-hand stores in
the weeks previous. Most of these hats were adorned with the ubiquitous
steampunk goggles. All the tents were furiously merchandising and each one of
them was a “shoppe” – any other term just doesn’t convey the feeling these
vendors were trying to exude. There were leatherworkers, mead-makers, purveyors
of fairy-wings and metal artworks, hatmakers, glovemakers and henna-tattoo
artisans. And this was all just within ‘coo-ee’ of the front entrance! The
theme this year was “Time Travel” so any perceived anachronism had its own
built-in rationale; to underscore the notion, there was a TARDIS just inside
the gate.
I
was particularly impressed by the main pavilion which, made of brick, has
towers with crenellations and arrow slits. Inside, there were merchandisers
selling “Ironfest 2013” T-shirts and
other branded goods, as well as a bunch of guys who build replicas of R2-D2 in
their spare time. There were so many of these little guys in different colours,
all tweeting and beeping and scooting about alarming kids, that it was hard to
know where to look: there was a steampunk version made of brass, rosewood and
glass, as well as a copy that had been assimilated by the Borg. There were also
Daleks, copies of K-9, a replica of the Time Machine from the first movie based
on H.G. Wells’ novel and a mock-up of the bridge of the SS-Enterprise from the original “Star
Trek” series These guys obviously have no lives!
Outside
once more, I turned to the main showground: the grandstand to one side was the
perfect spot to observe the jousting, so I headed in that direction. As I
wandered, I saw a beautiful Viking tent (the owner was selling goods made of
leather and horn) and a bunch of Roman Legionaries running a shoppe selling
‘mediaeval’ tchotchkes. I saw an
information tent set up by the Lithgow
Small-Arms Factory Museum (this used to be a major employer of the locals,
including my grandfather) and an encampment established by a group of ANZAC
re-creators. Next to them was a disturbing coterie of Third Reich living-history
types who – I guess, understandably – pointedly avoided having their photos
taken.
I
reached the grandstand as the jousting ended, but this was no big deal; it drew
my attention to the centre of the showground where the various “villages” of
the re-creation attendees were established. The guy on the loudspeaker
announced that the Mediaeval Village was about to be attacked by a squad from
the 1st AIF, so I wandered over to see how things would pan out.
Incidentally, the Mediaeval Village was the site for a rolling series of
attacks by outsiders from various times and places. As I approached the
embattled settlement I think I saw the cause of their problem:
The
various encampments around the village each had their strengths and weaknesses;
I especially liked the Napoleonic re-enactors who had the major share of the
campground, populated with a mess tent, space for camp-followers, a string of
cannon, and horses. An announcement over the PA as I ventured over informed me
that the Frenchies were about to have lunch, which I thought was a little
unnecessary in terms of general information-distribution, but I soon saw why
our attention was being so drawn: the mess tent comprised a coal-burning cooker
with spits for roasting and an enormous pile of edibles that the troops and
their hangers-on were tucking into with period gusto. While not an activity
that we gawpers were invited to share, it was amazing to watch such adherence
to period details. (And what they were eating certainly looked better than all
of the fairy-floss, chilli-dogs and deep-fried mysteries that the audience was
consuming!)
I
decided to follow some Troopers over to the metal-working displays and see what
all the noise (and there was quite a lot of it) was about. This exhibition
space – normally used for judging cattle – was chock-a-block full of guys with
hammers, whaling away at bits of hot metal. They were making hooks and
horseshoes, knives, pot-hangers and even a tree. One group had really gotten
into the spirit, all of the smiths wearing top hats or bowlers, and their
molten metal was being pounded by a steam hammer. Out in the yard beyond these
guys were four steam engines and the biggest of these periodically did laps
around the fairground to amaze onlookers.
Musically,
the joint was jumpin’, with belly-dancers, folk-singers and a tent full of
mediaeval musicians with incredible period instruments and a repertoire to go along
with them. The Lithgow City Council Brass
Band was also in attendance and gave everyone tunes to sing along with.
There
was a lot more but it would take weeks to go through it all. Suffice it to say,
there was a great vibe happening and a huge amount of creativity reverberating
in the one spot. I was delighted by the willingness of everyone to pitch in and
some of the costumes were amazing: one girl had designed a dress after the
TARDIS as a nod to this year’s theme; sadly, it was somewhat too cold a day for
her to enjoy wearing it and her willingness to be photographed had tapered off
abruptly. Nevertheless, kudos! At
every turn I found something to be tickled about: the weapons and armour guys
had a display of their craft and there, lurking in the middle of it all, was
the Spear of Destiny. It was great to see everyone picking up the theme and
running as hard as they could with it.
Eventually
though, I had to head back to the train station and make my way home. As I
left, the gatekeepers asked if I was intending to come back today, in which
case they would stamp my wrist so that I could come and go as I wished (and I
should hope so, with a $35 entry fee!). I wasn’t going to be coming back but I
got the stamp anyway: next year’s Ironfest
bears the theme “Life on Mars” - I’ll definitely be coming back!
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